OR, ANECDOTES OF AN ENTERPRISE BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS

By Washington Irving

CONTENTS AUTHOR’S INTRODUCTION CHAPTER I. — Objects of American Enterprise.—Gold Hunting and Fur Trading.—Their Effect on Colonization.—Early French Canadian Settlers.—Ottawa and Huron Hunters.—An Indian Trading Camp. Coureurs Des Bois, or Rangers of the Woods.—Their Roaming Life.—Their Revels and Excesses.—Licensed Traders. Missionaries.—Trading Posts.—Primitive French Canadian Merchant.—His Establishment and Dependents.—British Canadian Fur Merchant.—Origin of the Northwest Company.—Its Constitution.—Its Internal Trade.—A Candidate for the Company.—Privations in the Wilderness.—Northwest Clerks. Northwest Partners.—Northwest Nabobs.—Feudal Notions in the Forests.—The Lords of the Lakes.—Fort William.—Its Parliamentary Hall and Banqueting Room.—Wassailing in the Wilderness. CHAPTER II. — Rise of the Mackinaw Company.—Attempt of the American Government to Counteract Foreign Influence Over the Indian Tribes.—John Jacob Astor.—His Birth-Place.—His Arrival in the United States.—What First Turned His Attention to the

Fur Trade.—His Character, Enterprises, and Success.—His Communications With the American Government.—Origin of the American Fur Company CHAPTER III. — Fur Trade in the Pacific—American Coasting Voyages—Russian Enterprises.—Discovery of the Columbia River.—Carver’s Project to Found a Settlement There.—Mackenzie’s Expedition.—Lewis and Clarke’s Journey Across the Rocky Mountains—Mr. Astor’s Grand Commercial Scheme.—His Correspondence on the Subject With Mr. Jefferson.—His Negotiations With the Northwest Company.—His Steps to Carry His Scheme Into Effect. CHAPTER IV. — Two Expeditions Set on Foot.—The Tonquin and Her Crew.— Captain Thorn, His Character.—The Partners and Clerks— Canadian Voyageurs, Their Habits, Employments, Dress, Character, Songs—Expedition of a Canadian Boat and Its Crew by Land and Water.—Arrival at New York.—Preparations for a Sea Voyage.—Northwest Braggarts.—Underhand Precautions— Letter of Instructions. CHAPTER V. — Sailing of the Tonquin.—A Rigid Commander and a Reckless

Crew.—Landsmen on Shipboard.—Fresh-Water Sailors at Sea.— Lubber Nests.—Ship Fare.—A Labrador Veteran—Literary Clerks.-Curious Travellers.—Robinson Crusoe’s Island.— Quarter-Deck Quarrels.—Falkland Islands.—A Wild-Goose Chase.—Port Egmont.-Epitaph Hunting.—Old Mortality— Penguin Shooting.—Sportsmen Left in the Lurch.—A Hard Pull.—Further Altercations.—Arrival at Owyhee. CHAPTER VI. — Owyhee.—Sandwich Islanders—Their Nautical Talents.— Tamaahmaah.—His Navy.—His Negotiations.—Views of Mr. Astor With Respect to the Sandwich Islands—Karakakooa.— Royal Monopoly of Pork.-Description of the Islanders— Gayeties on Shore.—Chronicler of the Island.—Place Where Captain Cook was Killed.—John Young, a Nautical Governor.—His Story.—Waititi—A Royal Residence.—A Royal Visit—Grand Ceremonials.—Close Dealing—A Royal Pork Merchant—Grievances of a Matter-of-Fact Man. CHAPTER VII. — Departure From the Sandwich Islands.—Misunderstandings— Miseries of a Suspicious Man.—Arrival at the Columbia—

Dangerous Service.—Gloomy Apprehensions—Bars and Breakers.—Perils of the Ship. Disasters of a Boat’s Crew.— Burial of a Sandwich Islander. CHAPTER VIII. — Mouth of the Columbia.—The Native Tribes.—Their Fishing.— Their Canoes.—Bold Navigators—Equestrian Indians and Piscatory Indians, Difference in Their Physical Organization.—Search for a Trading Site.—Expedition of M’Dougal and David Stuart-Comcomly, the One-Eyed Chieftain.— Influence of Wealth in Savage Life.—Slavery Among the Natives.-An Aristocracy of Flatheads.-Hospitality Among the Chinooks—Comcomly’s Daughter.—Her Conquest. CHAPTER IX. — Point George—Founding of Astoria—Indian Visitors.—Their Reception.—The Captain Taboos the Ship.—Departure of the Tonquin.—Comments on the Conduct of Captain Thorn. CHAPTER X. — Disquieting Rumors From the Interior.—Reconnoitring Party— Preparations for a Trading Post.—An Unexpected Arrival—A Spy in the Camp.—Expedition Into the Interior—Shores of the Columbia—Mount Coffin.—Indian Sepulchre.—The Land of

Spirits—Columbian Valley—Vancouver’s Point.-Falls and Rapids.—A Great Fishing Mart.—The Village of Wishram.— Difference Between Fishing Indians and Hunting Indians— Effects of Habits of Trade on the Indian Character.—Post Established at the Oakinagan. CHAPTER XI. — Alarm at Astoria.—Rumor of Indian Hostilities.— Preparations for Defense.—Tragic Fate of the Tonquin. CHAPTER XII. — Gloom at Astoria—An Ingenious Stratagem.—The Small-Pox Chief.—Launching of the Dolly.-An Arrival.—A Canadian Trapper.-A Freeman of the Forest—An Iroquois Hunter.— Winter on the Columbia.-Festivities of New Year. CHAPTER XIII. — Expedition by Land.—Wilson P. Hunt.—His Character.—Donald M’Kenzie.—Recruiting Service Among the Voyageurs.—A Bark Canoe.—Chapel of St. Anne.-Votive Offerings.—Pious Carousals,—A Ragged Regiment.-Mackinaw.—Picture of a Trading Post.—Frolicking Voyageurs.—Swells and Swaggerers.— Indian Coxcombs.—A Man of the North.—Jockeyship of Voyageurs—Inefficacy of Gold.-Weight of a Feather—Mr.

Ramsay Crooks—His Character.—His Risks Among the Indians.— His Warning Concerning Sioux and Blackfeet.—Embarkation of Recruits.—Parting Scenes Between Brothers, Cousins, Wives, Sweethearts, and Pot Companions. CHAPTER XIV. — St. Louis.—Its Situation.—Motley Population.—French Creole Traders and Their Dependants.—Missouri Fur Company— Mr. Manuel Lisa.—Mississippi Boatmen.—Vagrant Indians. —Kentucky Hunters—Old French Mansion—Fiddling—Billiards —Mr. Joseph Miller—His Character—Recruits—Voyage Up the Missouri.—Difficulties of the River.—Merits of Canadian Voyageurs.-Arrival at the Nodowa.—Mr. Robert M’Lellan joins the Party—John Day, a Virginia Hunter. Description of Him. —Mr. Hunt Returns to St. Louis. CHAPTER XV. — Opposition of the Missouri Fur Company.-Blackfeet Indians.— Pierre Dorion, a Half-Breed Interpreter.—Old Dorion and His Hybrid Progeny—Family Quarrels.—Cross Purposes Between Dorion and Lisa.—Renegadoes From Nodowa.—Perplexities of a Commander.—Messrs. Bradbury and Nuttall Join the

Expedition.-Legal Embarrassments of Pierre Dorion.— Departure From St. Louis.—Conjugal Discipline of a Half- Breed.—Annual Swelling of the Rivers.-Daniel Boone, the Patriarch of Kentucky.-John Colter.-His Adventures Among the Indians.-Rumors of Danger Ahead.-Fort Osage.-An Indian War- Feast.-Troubles in the Dorion Family.—Buffaloes and Turkey- Buzzards. CHAPTER XVI. — Return of Spring.—Appearance of Snakes.—Great Flights of Wild Pigeons.—Renewal of the Voyage.—Night Encampments.— Platte River.—Ceremonials on Passing It.—Signs of Indian War Parties.—Magnificent Prospect at Papillion Creek.— Desertion of Two Hunters.—An Irruption Into the Camp of Indian Desperadoes.—Village of the Omahas.—Anecdotes of the Tribe.—Feudal Wars of the Indians.—Story of Blackbird, the Famous Omaha Chief. CHAPTER XVII. — Rumors of Danger From the Sioux Tetons.—Ruthless Character of Those Savages.—Pirates of the Missouri.—Their Affair with Crooks and M’Lellan.—A Trading Expedition Broken Up.— M’Lellan’s Vow of Vengeance.—Uneasiness in the Camp.—

Desertions.-Departure From the Omaha Village.—Meeting With Jones and Carson, two Adventurous Trappers.—Scientific Pursuits of Messrs. Bradbury and Nuttall.—Zeal of a Botanist.—Adventure of Mr. Bradbury with a Ponca Indian.— Expedient of the Pocket Compass and Microscope.—A Messenger From Lisa.—Motives for Pressing Forward. CHAPTER XVIII. — Camp Gossip.—Deserters.—Recruits.—Kentucky Hunters.—A Veteran Woodman.—Tidings of Mr. Henry.-Danger From the Blackfeet.—Alteration of Plans.—Scenery of the River.— Buffalo Roads.—Iron Ore.—Country of the Sioux.—A Land of Danger.-apprehensions of the Voyageurs.—Indian Scouts.— Threatened Hostilities.—A Council of War.—An Array of Battle.—A Parley.—The Pipe of Peace.—Speech-Making. CHAPTER XIX. — The Great Bend of the Missouri—Crooks and M’Lellan Meet With Two of Their Indian Opponents—Wanton Outrage of a White Man the Cause of Indian Hostility—Dangers and Precautions.-An Indian War Party.—Dangerous Situation of Mr. Hunt.—A Friendly Encampment.—Feasting and Dancing.—

Approach of Manuel Lisa and His Party—.A Grim Meeting Between Old Rivals.—Pierre Dorion in a Fury.—A Burst of chivalry. CHAPTER XX. — Features of the Wilderness—Herds of Buffalo.—Antelopes— Their Varieties and Habits.—John Day.—His Hunting Strategy—Interview with Three Arickaras—Negotiations Between the Rival Parties—The Left-Handed and the Big Man, two Arickara Chiefs.—Arickara Village—Its Inhabitants— Ceremonials on Landing—A Council Lodge.—Grand Conference— Speech of Lisa.—Negotiation for Horses.—Shrewd Suggestion of Gray Eyes, an Arickara Chief—Encampment of the Trading Parties. CHAPTER XXI. — An Indian Horse Fair.—Love of the Indians for Horses— Scenes in the Arickara Village.—Indian Hospitality.—Duties of Indian Women. Game Habits of the Men.—Their Indolence. —Love of Gossiping.—Rumors of Lurking Enemies.—Scouts.— An Alarm.—A Sallying Forth.—Indian Dogs.—Return of a Horse —Stealing Party.—An Indian Deputation.—Fresh Alarms.—Return of a Successful War Party.—Dress of the Arickaras.—Indian

Toilet.—Triumphal Entry of the War Party.—Meetings of Relations and Friends.—Indian Sensibility.—Meeting of a Wounded Warrior and His Mother.—Festivities and Lamentations. CHAPTER XXII. — Wilderness of the Far West.—Great American Desert—Parched Seasons.—Black Hills.—Rocky Mountains.—Wandering and Predatory Hordes.—Speculations on What May Be the Future Population.—Apprehended Dangers.-A Plot to Desert.—Rose the Interpreter.—His Sinister Character—Departure From the Arickara Village. CHAPTER XXIII. — Summer Weather of the Prairies.—Purity of the Atmosphere— Canadians on the March.—Sickness in the Camp.—Big River.— Vulgar Nomenclature.—Suggestions About the Original Indian Names.—Camp of Cheyennes.—Trade for Horses.—Character of the Cheyennes.—Their Horsemanship.—Historical Anecdotes of the Tribe. CHAPTER XXIV. — New Distribution of Horses—Secret Information of Treason in the Camp.—Rose the Interpreter—His Perfidious Character— His Plots.—Anecdotes of the Crow Indians.—Notorious Horse

Stealers.—Some Account of Rose.—A Desperado of the Frontier. CHAPTER XXV. — Substitute for Fuel on the Prairies.—Fossil Trees.— Fierceness of the Buffaloes When in Heat.—Three Hunters Missing.—Signal Fires and Smokes.—Uneasiness Concerning the Lost Men.—A Plan to Forestall a Rogue.—New Arrangement With Rose.—Return of the Wanderers. CHAPTER XXVI. — The Black Mountains.—Haunts of Predatory Indians.—Their Wild and Broken Appearance.—Superstitions Concerning Them— Thunder Spirits.—Singular Noises in the Mountains—Secret Mines.-Hidden Treasures.—Mountains in Labor.—Scientific Explanation.-Impassable Defiles.—Black-Tailed Deer.-The Bighorn or Ahsahta.-Prospect From a Lofty Height.—Plain With Herds of Buffalo.-Distant Peaks of the Rocky Mountains.—Alarms in the Camp.-Tracks of Grizzly Bears.— Dangerous Nature of This Animal.-Adventures of William Cannon and John Day With Grizzly Bears. CHAPTER XXVII. — Indian Trail.—Rough Mountain Travelling.—Sufferings From Hunger and Thirst—Powder River.—Game in Abundance.-A

Hunter’s Paradise.—Mountain Peak Seen at a Great Distance.— One of the Bighorn Chain.—Rocky Mountains.—Extent.— Appearance.—Height.-The Great American Desert.—Various Characteristics of the Mountains.—Indian Superstitions Concerning Them.—Land of Souls.—Towns of the Free and Generous Spirits—Happy Hunting Grounds. CHAPTER XXVIII. — Region of the Crow Indians—Scouts on the Lookout—Visit From a Crew of Hard Riders.—A Crow Camp.—Presents to the Crow Chief.-Bargaining.-Crow Bullies.-Rose Among His Indian Friends.-Parting With the Crows.—Perplexities Among the Mountains.—More of the Crows.—Equestrian Children.—Search After Stragglers. CHAPTER XXIX — Mountain Glens.—Wandering Band of Savages—Anecdotes of Shoshonies and Flatheads.—Root Diggers—Their Solitary Lurking Habits.—Gnomes of the Mountains.—Wind River.— Scarcity of Food.—Alteration of Route.—The Pilot Knobs or Tetons.—Branch of the Colorado.—Hunting Camp. CHAPTER XXX. — A Plentiful Hunting Camp.-Shoshonie Hunters—Hoback’s River

—Mad River—Encampment Near the Pilot Knobs.—A Consultation.—Preparations for a Perilous Voyage. CHAPTER XXXI. — A Consultation Whether to Proceed by Land or Water— Preparations for Boat-Building.—An Exploring Party.—A Party of Trappers Detached.—Two Snake Visitors.—Their Report Concerning the River.—Confirmed by the Exploring Party.—Mad River Abandoned.—Arrival at Henry’s Fort.— Detachment of Robinson, Hoback, and Rezner to Trap.—Mr. Miller Resolves to Accompany Them.—Their Departure. CHAPTER XXXII. — Scanty Fare.—A Mendicant Snake.—Embarkation on Henry River—Joy of the Voyageurs.-Arrival at Snake River.—Rapids and Breakers.—Beginning of Misfortunes.—Snake Encampments.—Parley With a Savage.—A Second Disaster.— Loss of a Boatman.—The Caldron Linn. CHAPTER XXXIII. — Gloomy Council.—Exploring Parties—Discouraging Reports— Disastrous Experiment.—Detachments in Quest of Succor.— Caches, How Made.—Return of One of the Detachments— Unsuccessful.—Further Disappointments—The Devil’s Scuttle-Hole

CHAPTER XXXIV. — Determination of the Party to Proceed on Foot.—Dreary Deserts Between Snake River and the Columbia.—Distribution of Effects Preparatory to a March—Division of the Party.— Rugged March Along the River.—Wild and Broken Scenery.— Shoshonies.—Alarm of a Snake Encampment—Intercourse with the Snakes.—Horse Dealing.—Value of a Tin Kettle.— Sufferings From Thirst—A Horse Reclaimed.—Fortitude of an Indian Woman.—Scarcity of Food.—Dog’s Flesh a Dainty.—News of Mr. Crooks and His Party.—Painful Travelling Among the Mountains.—Snow Storms.—A Dreary Mountain Prospect.—A Bivouac During a Wintry Night.—Return to the River Bank. CHAPTER XXXV. — An Unexpected Meeting.—Navigation in a Skin Canoe.-Strange Fears of Suffering Men.-Hardships of Mr. Crooks and His Comrades.—Tidings of M’Lellan.—A Retrograde March.—A Willow Raft.—Extreme Suffering of Some of the Party—Illness of Mr. Crooks.—Impatience of Some of the Men.—Necessity of Leaving the Laggards Behind.

CHAPTER XXXVI. — Mr. Hunt Overtakes the Advance Party.—Pierre Dorion, and His Skeleton Horse.—A Shoshonie Camp.—A Justifiable Outrage.—Feasting on Horse Flesh.—Mr. Crooks Brought to the Camp.—Undertakes to Relieve His Men.—The Skin Ferry- Boat.—Frenzy of Prevost.—His Melancholy Fate.-Enfeebled State of John Day.-Mr. Crooks Again Left Behind.-The Party Emerge From Among the Mountains.—Interview With Shoshonies.— A Guide Procured to Conduct the Party Across a Mountain.— Ferriage Across Snake River.—Reunion With Mr Crook’s Men.— Final Departure From the River. CHAPTER XXXVII — Departure From Snake River—Mountains to the North.—Wayworn Travellers—An Increase of the Dorion Family.—A Camp of Shoshonies.—A New-Year Festival Among the Snakes.—A Wintry March Through the Mountains.—A Sunny Prospect, and Milder Climate.—Indian Horse-Tracks.—Grassy Valleys.—A Camp of Sciatogas.—Joy of the Travellers.-Dangers of Abundance.— Habits of the Sciatogas.—Fate of Carriere.—The Umatilla.— Arrival at the Banks of the Columbia.—Tidings of the

Scattered Members of the Expedition.—Scenery on the Columbia.—Tidings of Astoria-Arrival at the Falls. CHAPTER XXXVIII. — The Village of Wish-ram.—Roguery of the Inhabitants.—Their Habitations.—Tidings of Astoria.—Of the Tonquin Massacre. —Thieves About the Camp.—A Band of Braggarts—Embarkation.— Arrival at Astoria.—A Joyful Reception.—Old Comrade.— Adventures of Reed, M’Lellan, and M’Kenzie Among the Snake River Mountains.—Rejoicing at Astoria. CHAPTER XXXIX. — Scanty Fare During the Winter.—A Poor Hunting Ground.—The Return of the Fishing Season.—The Uthlecan or Smelt.—Its Qualities.—Vast Shoals of it.—Sturgeon.—Indian Modes of Taking It.—The Salmon—Different Species.—Nature of the Country About the Coast.—Forests and Forest Trees.—A Remarkable Flowering Vine.—Animals.—Birds.—Reptiles— Climate West of the Mountains—Mildness of the Temperature.—Soil of the Coast and the Interior. CHAPTER XL. — Natives in the Neighborhood of Astoria—Their Persons and Characteristics.—Causes of Deformity—Their Dress.—

Their Contempt of Beards—Ornaments—Armor and Weapons.-Mode of Flattening the Head.—Extent of the Custom.—Religious Belief.-The Two Great Spirits of the Air and of the Fire.— Priests or Medicine Men.—The Rival Idols.—Polygamy a Cause of Greatness-Petty Warfare.—Music, Dancing, Gambling.— Thieving a Virtue.—Keen Traders—Intrusive Habits— Abhorrence of Drunkenness—Anecdote of Comcomly. CHAPTER XLI. — Spring Arrangements at Astoria.—Various Expeditions Set Out.-The Long Narrows.—Pilfering Indians.—Thievish Tribe at Wish-ram.—Portage at the Falls—Portage by Moonlight.— An Attack, a Route, and a Robbery.—Indian Cure for Cowardice.—A Parley and Compromise.—The Despatch Party Turn Back.—Meet Crooks and John Day.—Their Sufferings.— Indian Perfidy.—Arrival at Astoria. CHAPTER XLII — Comprehensive Views.—To Supply the Russian Fur Establishment.—An Agent Sent to Russia.—Project of an Annual Ship.—The Beaver Fitted Out.—Her Equipment and Crew.—Instructions to the Captain.—The Sandwich

Islands.—Rumors of the Fate of the Tonquin.—Precautions on Reaching the Mouth of the Columbia. CHAPTER XLIII. — Active Operations at Astoria—Various Expeditions Fitted Out.—Robert Stuart and a Party Destined for New York— Singular Conduct of John Day.—His Fate.—Piratical Pass and Hazardous Portage.-Rattlesnakes.—Their Abhorrence of Tobacco.—Arrival Among the Wallah-Wallahs.—Purchase of Horses—Departure of Stuart and His Band for the Mountains. CHAPTER XLIV. — Route of Mr. Stuart—Dreary Wilds.—Thirsty Travelling.-A Grove and Streamlet.—The Blue Mountains.—A Fertile Plain With Rivulets.—Sulphur Spring—Route Along Snake River— Rumors of White Men.—The Snake and His Horse.—A Snake Guide.-A Midnight Decampment.—Unexpected Meeting With Old Comrades—Story of Trappers’ Hardships—Salmon Falls—A Great Fishery.—Mode of Spearing Salmon.—Arrival at the Caldron Linn.—State of the Caches.—New Resolution of the Three Kentucky Trappers. CHAPTER XLV. — The Snake River Deserts.—Scanty Fare.—Bewildered