PREFACE

In the following pages an attempt has been made—it is believed for the first time—to give an account of the cruise of a South Sea whaler from the seaman's standpoint. Two very useful books have been published—both of them over half a century ago—on the same subject; but, being written by the surgeons of whale-ships for scientific purposes, neither of them was interesting to the general reader. ["Narrative of a Whaling Voyage round the Globe," by F Debell Bennett, F.R.C.S. (2 vols). Bentley, London (1840). "The Sperm Whale Fishery," by Thomas Beale, M.R.C.S. London (1835).] They have both been long out of print; but their value to the student of natural history has been, and still is, very great, Dr. Beale's book, in particular, being still the authority on the sperm whale.

This book does not pretend to compete with either of the above valuable works. Its aims is to present to the general reader a simple account of the methods employed, and the dangers met with, in a calling about which the great mass of the public knows absolutely nothing. Pending the advent of some great writer who shall see the wonderful possibilities for literature contained in the world-wide wanderings of the South Sea whale-fishers, the author has endeavoured to summarize his experiences so that they may be read without weariness, and, it is hoped, with profit.

The manifold shortcomings of the work will not, it is trusted, be laid to the account of the subject, than which none more interesting could well be imagined, but to the limitations of the writer, whose long experience of sea life has done little to foster the literary faculty.

One claim may be made with perfect confidence—that if the manner be not all that could be wished, the matter is entirely trustworthy, being compiled from actual observation and experience, and in no case at second-hand. An endeavour has also been made to exclude such matter as is easily obtainable elsewhere—matters of common knowledge and "padding" of any sort—the object not being simply the making of a book, but the record of little-known facts.

Great care has been taken to use no names either of ships or persons, which could, by being identified, give annoyance or pain to any one, as in many cases strong language has been necessary for the expression of opinions.

Finally, the author hopes that, although in no sense exclusively a book for boys, the coming generation may find this volume readable and interesting; and with that desire he offers it confidently, though in all humility, to that great impartial jury, the public.

F.T.B. Dulwich, July, 1897.

CONTENTS PREFACE DETAILED CONTENTS INTRODUCTION THE CRUISE OF THE "CACHALOT" CHAPTER I. OUTWARD BOUND CHAPTER II. PREPARING FOR ACTION CHAPTER III. FISHING BEGINS CHAPTER IV. BAD WEATHER CHAPTER V. ACTUAL WARFARE. OUR FIRST WHALE CHAPTER VI. "DIRTY WORK FOR CLEAN MONEY" CHAPTER VII. GETTING SOUTHWARD CHAPTER VIII. ABNER'S WHALE CHAPTER IX. OUR FIRST CALLING-PLACE CHAPTER X. A VISIT TO SOME STRANGE PLACES CHAPTER XI. ROUND THE COCOS AND SEYCHELLES CHAPTER XII. WHICH TREATS OF THE KRAKEN CHAPTER XIII. OFF TO THE JAPAN GROUNDS CHAPTER XIV. LIBERTY DAY—AND AFTER CHAPTER XV. WHICH COMES UNCOMFORTABLY NEAR BEING THE LAST CHAPTER XVI. "BOWHEAD" FISHING CHAPTER XVII. VISIT TO HONOLULU CHAPTER XVIII. ON THE "LINE" GROUNDS CHAPTER XIX. EDGING SOUTHWARD CHAPTER XX. "HUMPBACKING" AT VAU VAU CHAPTER XXI. PROGRESS OF THE "HUMPBACK" SEASON CHAPTER XXII. FAREWELL TO VAU VAU CHAPTER XXIII. AT FUTUNA, RECRUITING CHAPTER XXIV. THE BAY OF ISLANDS AND NEW ZEALAND COAST CHAPTER XXV. ON THE SOLANDER GROUNDS CHAPTER XXVI. PADDY'S LATEST EXPLOIT CHAPTER XXVII. PORT PEGASUS CHAPTER XXVIII. TO

THE BLUFF, AND HOME

DETAILED CONTENTS

CHAPTER I—OUTWARD BOUND Adrift in New Bedford—I get a ship—A motley crowd—"Built by the mile, and cut off as you want 'em"—Mistah Jones—Greenies—Off to sea. CHAPTER II—PREPARING FOR ACTION Primitive steering-gear—Strange drill—Misery below—Short commons—Goliath rigs the "crow's-nest"—Useful information—Preparing for war—Strange weapons—A boat-load. CHAPTER III—FISHING BEGINS The cleanliness of a whale-ship—No skulking—Porpoise-fishing—Cannibals—Cooking operations—Boat-drill—A good look-out—"Black-fishing"—Roguery in all trades—Plenty of fresh beef—The nursery of American whalemen. CHAPTER IV—BAD WEATHER Nautical routine—The first gale—Comfort versus speed—A grand sea-boat—The Sargasso Sea—Natural history pursuits—Dolphin—Unconventional fishing—Rumours of a visit to the Cape Verdes—Babel below—No allowance, but not "full and plenty"—Queer washing—Method of sharing rations—The "slop-shop" opened—Our prospects. CHAPTER V—ACTUAL WARFARE. OUR FIRST WHALE Premonitions—Discussion

on whaling from unknown premisses—I wake in a fright—Sperm whales at last—The war begins—Warning—We get fast—and get loose—In trouble—an uncomfortable situation—No Pity-Only one whale—Rigging the "cutting-stage"—Securing the whale alongside. CHAPTER VI—"DIRTY WORK FOR CLEAN MONEY" Goliath in trouble—Commence "cutting-in"—A heavy head—A tank of spermaceti—Decks running with oil—A "Patent" mincing-machine—Extensive cooking—Dangerous work—Three tuns of oil—A horrible mess—A thin-skinned monster—A fine mouth of teeth. CHAPTER VII—GETTING SOUTHWARD Captain Slocum's amenities—Expensive beer—St. Paul's Rocks—"Bonito"—"Showery" weather—Waterspouts—Calms—A friendly finback—A disquisition on whales by Mistah Jones—Flying-fishing. CHAPTER VIII—ABNER'S WHALE Abner in luck—A big "fish" at last—A feat of endurance—A fighting whale—The sperm whale's food—Ambergris—A good reception—Hard labour—Abner's reward—"Scrimshaw". CHAPTER IX—OUR FIRST CALLING-PLACE A forced march—Tristan d'Acunha—Visitors—Fresh

provisions—A warm welcome—Goliath's turn—a feathered host—Good gear—A rough time—Creeping north—Uncertainty—"Rule of thumb"—navigation—The Mozambique Channel. CHAPTER X—A VISIT TO SOME STRANGE PLACES Tropical thunderstorms—A "record" day's fishing—Cetacean frivolities—Mistah Jones moralizes—A snug harbour—Wooding and watering—Catching a turtle—Catching a "Tartar"—A violent death—A crooked jaw—Aldabra Island—Primeval inhabitants—A strange steed—"Pirate" birds—Good eggs—Green cocoa-nuts—More turtle—A school of "kogia". CHAPTER XI—ROUND THE COCOS AND SEYCHELLES We encounter a "cyclone"—A tremendous gust—a foundering ship—To anchor for repairs—The Cocos—Repairing damages—Around the Seychelles—A "milk" sea—A derelict prahu—A ghastly freight—A stagnant sea. CHAPTER XII—WHICH TREATS OF THE KRAKEN "Eyes and no eyes" at sea—Of big mollusca—The origin of sea-serpent stories—Rediscovery of the "Kraken"—A conflict of monsters—"The insatiable nightmares of the sea"—Spermaceti running to waste—The

East Indian maze. CHAPTER XIII—OFF TO THE JAPAN GROUNDS A whale off Hong Kong—The skipper and his "'bomb-gun"—Injury to the captain—Unwelcome visitors—The heathen Chinee—We get safe off—"Death of Portagee Jim"—The Funeral—The Coast of Japan—Port Lloyd—Meeting of whale-ships. CHAPTER XIV—LIBERTY DAY—AND AFTER Liberty day—I foregather with a "beach-comber"—A big fight—Goliath on the war-path—A court-martial—Wholesale flogging—a miserable crowd—Quite a fleet of whale-ships—I "raise" a sperm whale—Severe competition—An unfortunate stroke—The skipper distinguishes himself. CHAPTER XV—WHICH COMES UNCOMFORTABLY NEAR BEING THE LAST I come to grief—Emulating Jonah—Sharing a flurry—A long spell of sick-leave—The whale's "sixth sense"—Off to the Kuriles—Prepare for "bowhead" fishing—The Sea of Okhotsk—Abundant salmon—The "daintiness" of seamen. CHAPTER XVI—"BOWHEAD" FISHING Difference between whales—Popular ideas exploded—The gentle mysticetus—Very tame work—Fond of tongue—Goliath

confides in me—An awful affair—Captain Slocum's death—"Not Amurath an Amurath succeeds"—I am promoted. CHAPTER XVII—VISIT TO HONOLULU Towards Honolulu—Missionaries and their critics—The happy Kanaka—Honolulu—A pleasant holiday. CHAPTER XVIII—ON THE "LINE" GROUNDS I get my opportunity—A new harpooner—Feats under the skipper's eye—Two whales on one line—Compliments Heavy towage—A grand haul. CHAPTER XIX—EDGING SOUTHWARD Monotony—A school of blackfish—A boat ripped in half—A multitude of sharks—A curious backbone—Christmas Day—A novel Christmas dinner—A find of ambergris. CHAPTER XX—"HUMPBACKING" AT VAU VAU "Gamming" again—a Whitechapel rover—arrive at Vau Vau—Valuable friends—a Sunday ashore—"Hollingside"—The natives at church—Full-dress—Very "mishnally"—Idyllic cruising—Wonderful mother-love—A mighty feast. CHAPTER XXI—PROGRESS OF THE "HUMPBACK" SEASON A fruitless chase—Placid times—a stirring adventure—a vast cave—Unforeseen company—A night of terror—We provide a feast for the

sharks—the death of Abner—An impressive ceremony—an invitation to dinner—Kanaka cookery. CHAPTER XXII—FAREWELL TO VAU VAU Ignorance of the habits of whales—A terrific encounter—VAE VICTIS—Rewarding our "flems"—We leave Van Vau—The Outward bounder—Sailors' "homes"—A night of horror—Sudden death—Futuna. CHAPTER XXIII—AT FUTUNA, RECRUITING A fleet of nondescripts—"Tui Tongoa" otherwise Sam—Eager recruits—Devout Catholics—A visit to Sunday Island—A Crusoe family—Their eviction—Maori cabbage—Fine fishing—Away for New Zealand—Sight the "Three Kings"—The Bay of Islands. CHAPTER XXIV—THE BAY OF ISLANDS AND NEW ZEALAND COAST Sleepy hollow—Wood and water—liberty day—A plea for the sailors' recreation—Our picnic—A a whiff of "May"—A delightful excursion—To the southward again—Wintry weather—Enter Foveaux Straits. CHAPTER XXV—ON THE SOLANDER GROUNDS Firstfruits of the Solander—An easy catch—Delights of the Solander—Port William—The old CHANCE—"Paddy Gilroy"—Barbarians from the East

End—Barracouta-Fishing—Wind-bound—An enormous school of cachalots—Misfortune—A bursting whale—Back on the Solander again—Cutting-in at Port William—Studying anatomy—Badly battered Yankees—Paddy in luck again. CHAPTER XXVI—PADDY'S LATEST EXPLOIT We try Preservation Inlet—An astounding feat of Paddy Gilroy's. CHAPTER XXVII—PORT PEGASUS Port Pegasus—Among old acquaintances—"Mutton birds"—Skilled auxiliaries—A gratifying catch—Leave port again—Back to the Solander—A grim escape—Our last whales—Into Port William again—Paddy's assistance—We part with our Kanakas—Sam's plans of conquest. CHAPTER XXVIII—TO THE BLUFF, AND HOME And last—In high-toned company—Another picnic—Depart from the Bluff—Hey for the Horn!—Among the icebergs—"Scudding"—Favouring trades—A narrow escape from collision—Home at last.

INTRODUCTION

Without attempting the ambitious task of presenting a comprehensive sketch of the origin, rise, and fall of whale-fishing as a whole, it seems necessary to give a brief outline of that portion of the subject bearing upon the theme of the present book before plunging into the first chapter.

This preliminary is the more needed for the reason alluded to in the Preface—the want of knowledge of the subject that is apparent everywhere. The Greenland whale fishery has been so popularized that most people know something about it; the sperm whale fishery still awaits its Scoresby and a like train of imitators and borrowers.

Cachalots, or sperm whales, must have been captured on the coasts of Europe in a desultory way from a very early date, by the incidental allusions to the prime products spermaceti and ambergris which are found in so many ancient writers, Shakespeare's reference—"The sovereign'st thing on earth was parmaceti for an inward bruise"—will be familiar to most people, as well as Milton's mention of the delicacies at Satan's feast—"Grisamber steamed"—not to carry quotation any further.

But in the year 1690 the brave and hardy fishermen of the north-east coasts of North America established that systematic pursuit of the cachalot which has thriven so wonderfully ever since, although it must be confessed that the last few years have witnessed a serious decline in this great branch of trade.

For many years the American colonists completely engrossed this branch of the whale fishery, contentedly leaving to Great Britain and the continental nations the monopoly of the northern or Arctic fisheries, while they cruised the stormy, if milder, seas around their own shores.

For the resultant products, their best customer was the mother country, and a lucrative commerce steadily grew up between the two countries. But when the march of events brought the unfortunate and wholly unnecessary War of Independence, this flourishing trade was the first to suffer, and many of the daring fishermen became our fiercest foes on board their own men-of-war.

The total stoppage of the importation of sperm oil and spermaceti was naturally severely felt in England, for time had not permitted the invention of substitutes. In consequence of this, ten ships were equipped and sent out to the sperm whale fishery from England in 1776, most of them owned by one London firm, the Messrs. Enderby. The next year, in order to encourage the infant enterprise, a Government bounty, graduated from L500 to L1000 per ship, was granted. Under this fostering care the number of ships engaged in the sperm whale fishery progressively increased until 1791, when it attained its maximum.

This method of whaling being quite new to our whalemen, it was necessary, at great cost, to hire American officers and harpooners to instruct them in the ways of dealing with these highly active and dangerous cetacea. Naturally, it was by-and-by found possible to dispense with the services of these auxiliaries; but it must be confessed that the business never seems to have found such favour, or to have been prosecuted with such smartness, among our whalemen as it has by the Americans.

Something of an exotic the trade always was among us, although it did attain considerable proportions at one time. At first the fishing was confined to the Atlantic Ocean; nor for many years was it necessary to go farther afield, as abundance of whales could easily be found.

As, however, the number of ships engaged increased, it was inevitable that the known grounds should become exhausted, and in 1788 Messrs. Enderby's ship, the EMILIA, first ventured round Cape Horn, as the pioneer of a greater trade than ever. The way once pointed out, other ships were not slow to follow, until, in 1819, the British whale-ship SYREN opened up the till then unexplored tract of ocean in the western part of the North Pacific, afterwards familiarly known as the "Coast of Japan." From these teeming waters alone, for many years an average annual catch of 40,000 barrels of oil was taken, which, at the average price of L8 per barrel, will give some idea of the value of the trade generally.

The Australian colonists, early in their career, found the sperm whale fishery easy of access from all their coasts, and especially lucrative. At one time they bade fair to establish a whale fishery that should rival the splendid trade of the Americans; but, like the mother country, they permitted the fishery to decline, so that even bounties could not keep it alive.

Meanwhile, the Americans added to their fleet continually, prospering amazingly. But suddenly the advent of the civil war let loose among those peaceable cruisers the devastating ALABAMA, whose course was marked in some parts of the world by the fires of blazing whale-ships. A great part, of the Geneva award was on this account, although it must be acknowledged that many pseudo-owners were enriched who never owned aught but brazen impudence and influential friends to push their fictitious claims. The real sufferers, seamen especially, in most cases never received any redress whatever.

From this crushing blow the American sperm whale fishery has never fully recovered. When the writer was in the trade, some twenty-two years ago, it was credited with a fleet of between three and four hundred sail; now it may be doubted whether the numbers reach an eighth of that amount. A rigid conservatism of method hinders any revival of the industry, which is practically conducted to-day as it was fifty, or even a hundred years ago; and it is probable that another decade will witness the final extinction of what was once one of the most important maritime industries in the world.

CHAPTER I. OUTWARD BOUND

At the age of eighteen, after a sea-experience of six years from the time when I dodged about London streets, a ragged Arab, with wits sharpened by the constant fight for food, I found myself roaming the streets of New Bedford, Massachusetts. How I came to be there, of all places in the world, does not concern this story at all, so I am not going to trouble my readers with it; enough to say that I WAS there, and mighty anxious to get away. Sailor Jack is always hankering for shore when he is at sea, but when he is "outward bound"—that is, when his money is all gone—he is like a cat in the rain there.

So as MY money was all gone, I was hungry for a ship; and when a long, keen-looking man with a goat-like beard, and mouth stained with dry tobacco-juice, hailed me one afternoon at the street-corner, I answered very promptly, scenting a berth. "Lookin' fer a ship, stranger?" said he. "Yes; do you want a hand?" said I, anxiously. He made a funny little sound something like a pony's whinny, then answered, "Wall, I should surmise that I want between fifty and sixty hands, ef yew kin lay me onto 'em; but, kem along, every dreep's a drop, an' yew seem likely enough." With that he turned and led the way until we reached a building around which were gathered one of the most nondescript crowds I had ever seen. There certainly did not appear to be a sailor among them. Not so much by their rig, though that is not a great deal to go by, but by their actions and speech. One thing they all had in common, tobacco chewing but as nearly every male I met with in America did that, it was not much to be noticed. I had hardly done reckoning them up when two or three bustling men came

out and shepherded us all energetically into a long, low room, where some form of agreement was read out to us. Sailors are naturally and usually careless about the nature of the "articles" they sign, their chief anxiety being to get to sea, and under somebody's charge. But had I been ever so anxious to know what I was going to sign this time, I could not, for the language might as well have been Chinese for all I understood of it. However, I signed and passed on, engaged to go I knew not where, in some ship I did not know even the name of, in which I was to receive I did not know how much, or how little, for my labour, nor how long I was going to be away. "What a young fool!" I hear somebody say. I quite agree, but there were a good many more in that ship, as in most ships that I have ever sailed in.